Oxford cloth
Also known as Oxford spinning, polyester polyester-cotton blended yarn is interwoven with cotton yarn, and the weft weight is flat or square weave. It has the characteristics of easy washing, quick drying, soft hand feel, good hygroscopicity and comfortable wearing. It looks like yarn-dyed fabric.
It is named because the earliest Oxford University student uniform shirts used this cotton fabric. In the 1900s, in order to combat the flashy and luxurious clothing trend at that time, a small group of maverick students at Oxford University designed and processed combed cotton fabrics on their own. This fabric has a two-color effect, a harmonious color, quietness, good breathability, and comfort. nature. Driven by this, the fabric became exclusive for Oxford University uniforms, and then became popular in Europe and the United States for hundreds of years. It was known as Oxford Textile in history.
The main varieties of Oxford cloth are:
Platform Oxford cloth , specially used for making all kinds of bags
Nylon Oxford cloth, mainly produces flood and rainproof products
Fully elastic Oxford cloth, mainly used for making bags
Tiger Oxford cloth, mainly produces various bags
Weft Oxford cloth, mainly produces various bags.
How are the specifications of Oxford cloth named? The specifications should be determined according to the thickness of the raw materials.
For example: 210D Oxford cloth should be made of 200D raw materials for warp and weft, so why not call it 200D Oxford cloth?
Because the current allowable error range of raw material thickness in the world is +/-5%, it is generally called upward, which is called 210D. 1680D luggage fabric should be woven from two 800D strands, otherwise it cannot be called 1680D luggage fabric.
In addition, the warp and weft density is also very important. It is also 210D. Some fabrics are dense and some are thin. This is due to the different warp and weft densities. When buying Oxford cloth, you must pay attention to the warp and weft. density.
Generally speaking, the number of steel reeds in the warp direction is 12 reeds per centimeter, and 2 reeds of No. 12 are 24 reeds per centimeter (12*2). Generally speaking, we can talk about how many shuttles there are, that is, how many yarns per centimeter, which can be measured with a weft density mirror. For example: 1200D12# reed with 7.5 shuttles, that is, 12 reeds in the warp direction, 1200D, and 7.5 reeds, 1200D in the weft direction. Foreign countries often talk about the number of T, such as 86T, 190T, 210T, etc. This refers to the sum of the number of yarns in the warp direction and the number of yarns in the weft direction within the range of 1 inch long and 1 inch wide.
Common quality problems of Oxford cloth:
1 Formaldehyde exceeds the standard
Oxford cloth Stiffening finishing is often required, and the stiffening agent commonly used on the market now is amino resin, which is polymerized with formaldehyde as the main raw material. The fabric surface processed by this kind of resin contains high levels of free formaldehyde and can easily exceed the standard. The solution is to choose an acrylic or vinyl acetate resin.
2 Metal ions exceeding the standard
Metal ions Cu, Cr, Co , Ni, Zn, Hg, As, Pb, Cd, etc. are tested in export products. If they exceed the standard, they will have serious consequences like formaldehyde exceeding the standard. Among additives, there are fewer such metal ions, but some additives can cause If the flame retardant antimony trioxide emulsion contains mercury, and when mordant dye is used on wool, the mordant dye used is potassium dichromate or sodium dichromate or sodium chromate, and the hexavalent Cr will exceed the standard.
3 Color change problem
After finishing, there are many color change problems. Attention must be paid to the selection of dyes during dyeing. When dyeing and proofing, corresponding post-finishing must be carried out according to the process to determine whether the selected dye will change color under the action of additives during post-finishing. At the same time, the condition of the dyed fabric must also be taken into consideration. Factors such as light color and discoloration caused by dye sublimation during drying and baking, and yellowing caused by excessive temperature.
4 APEO exceeds the standard
APEO is also strictly restricted as an indicator. This indicator is different from the previous one. The scouring agent and penetrating agent in processing, the cleaning agent and leveling agent in printing and dyeing, and the emulsifier in softener during finishing are all related. At present, TX and NP series surfactants are widely used as auxiliary raw materials. In this case, prevention is difficult. The only way is for printing and dyeing factories to insist on using environmentally friendly additives and strictly prevent additives containing APEO and toxic and harmful substances from entering the factory. </p