1: Overview
The diameter is generally a few microns to tens of microns, and slender substances whose length is a hundred or a thousand times larger than the diameter are called fibers. But not all fibers can be used to make textiles. Textile fibers are various fibers that have spinnability, dyeability, certain strength, elasticity, softness, fineness, length and other characteristics and are used to make textiles. Generally speaking, the characteristics of textile fibers are: they have an elongated shape, are soft and elastic, and can be used in textile production.
Two: Classification
(1): According to the geometric structure of the fiber, it can be divided into filaments and staple fiber
1. Filament: refers to long, continuous natural silk and chemical fiber. Filament is divided into monofilament and multifilament. Monofilament is spun by a chemical fiber factory using a single-hole spinneret or pulled from a single cocoon. Most of the filaments used in the textile industry are multifilaments, which are composed of two or more monofilaments. For example, 150D/96F is composed of 96 monofilaments.
2. Short fiber: refers to short natural fibers and cut chemical fibers. The cut chemical short fibers can be divided into cotton fiber, wool fiber, and medium-long fiber. Generally, the length of cotton fiber is 33-38mm, the length of wool-type fiber is more than 76mm, and the length of medium-long fiber is 51-66mm. Short fiber is divided into pure spinning yarn and blended yarn. Those with one raw material are called pure spinning yarns, and those with two or more raw materials are called blended yarns.
3. Code names of commonly used textile fibers.
(2): Classification according to the source of fiber
1. Natural fibers: refers to fibers produced or formed in nature and suitable for use in textile production. They mainly include animal fibers, plant fibers, and mineral fibers.
2. Chemical fiber: refers to fiber made by chemical methods using natural or synthetic polymers as raw materials. There are mainly regenerated fibers (man-made fibers), synthetic fibers, and inorganic fibers.
Textile fiber classification table:
3: Characteristics of textile fibers
(1) Thickness of fiber
1. For filament raw materials, the fixed-length method indicates its thickness. It is expressed by the weight of a fiber of a specified unit length. Its property is that the larger the value, the thicker the fiber, and vice versa. There are usually three methods:
①: Denier (D): Specifies the weight in grams of fiber within a fixed length of 9,000 meters. It is what we usually call the D number. For example, 100D means that a fiber (filament) 9000 meters long has a weight of 100g②: Tex specifies the weight in grams of fiber within a fixed length of 1000 meters.
③: DTex specifies the weight in grams of fiber within a fixed length of 10,000 meters.
2. Fixed weight production method: used for short fibers
It is expressed by the length of fiber with a specified unit weight. Its property is that the larger the value, the thinner the fiber. On the contrary, the thicker it becomes. Usually there are two forms. ①: Metric count (N): Specifies the length in meters of fiber weighing 1 gram.
②: Imperial count (S): specifies the length (840 yards) of fiber weighing 1 pound.
Four: Introduction to the functions of our commonly used textile fiber raw materials
(1): Cotton fiber
The growth of cotton fiber is divided into growth period, thickening period and turning period.
Types of cotton fiber:
1. Upland cotton, also known as fine-staple cotton, accounts for more than 85% of the world’s total cotton production. my country’s upland cotton cultivation area accounts for more than 98% of the total cotton field area. 2. Sea Island Cotton: Also known as long-staple cotton, it has excellent quality and high yield. Domestically, there are discussions on planting it in Xinjiang, Shanghai and Guangzhou. Long-staple cotton is a high-grade raw material for textile products. 3. Asian cotton: Also known as coarse staple cotton, it originates from India. It has short and thick fibers and can only adapt to the needs of individual textiles. 4. African cotton, also known as straw cotton, originates from Africa. Its quality is close to that of Asian cotton and will be gradually eliminated. The shape of cotton fiber: 1. Cross-sectional shape: Normal mature cotton fiber has an irregular waist-round cross-section with a middle cavity.
2. Longitudinal shape: Cotton fiber has a natural twist. Its longitudinal section is irregular and spirally twisted along the length of the fiber.
The grade of cotton yarn in conventional terms:
1. Carded yarn: refers to carded yarn Yarn spun by spinning process 2. Combed yarn: refers to yarn produced by using high-quality cotton fiber as raw material and adding a combing process compared to carded yarn during spinning. The yarn spun from combed cotton is thinner and
At present, the yarns we use are mainly combed ring spinning and combed compact spinning.
Chemical stability of cotton fiber:
The main component of cotton fiber is cellulose, so it is resistant to alkali and not acid. After the cotton fiber is treated in a certain concentration of sodium hydroxide solution or liquid ammonia, the fiber swells laterally, so that the cross-section becomes round and the natural distortion disappears, giving the fiber a silky luster. If it is stretched while puffing, it will be stretched to a certain extent.�, but its color fastness to rubbing is poor and its color is not bright enough. Certain dyes (such as sulfur black) will cause the fibers to become brittle during storage, so anti-brittle treatment is required after dyeing. Yellow and orange sulfur dyes often cause photosensitive brittleness to fibers.
6. Insoluble azo dyes Insoluble azo dyes are composed of two dyes, a middle primer (chromophen) and a color developer (color base). When dyeing, the fabric is first primed with a caustic soda solution of naphthol, and then developed with a diazotized solution of the color base. The naphthol on the fabric couples with the diazo compound of the color base to form an insoluble azo dye, which is fixed to the fabric. superior. Since ice is required for the diazotization reaction of the color base, insoluble azo dyes are also called ice dyes. This type of dye has bright color, good color fastness to soaping, and good color fastness to sunlight, but poor color fastness to rubbing and even worse color fastness to wet rubbing.
7. Stable insoluble azo dyes Stable insoluble azo dyes are a mixture of naphthol sodium salt and temporarily stable diazo compounds. Under normal circumstances, the two do not couple. reaction. After certain treatment after printing, the temporarily stable diazo compounds are converted into active diazo compounds, and then couple with the phenol to form a non-dark azo dye. This type of dye is mainly used to print small patterns.
8. Disperse dyes Disperse dyes are a type of non-ionic dyes with small molecules and no water-soluble groups in their structure. This type of dye is difficult to dissolve in water. Dyeing relies on the action of a dispersant. The dye is evenly dispersed in the dye liquor in the form of fine particles, so this type of dye is called a disperse dye. Mainly used for polyester dyeing, usually dyeing at a temperature of about 130 degrees.
9. Cationic dye dyeing Cationic dyes are a type of water-soluble dyes with very bright colors. The dyes ionize into cations in the aqueous solution, and carry anions in the dye solution through charge attraction. Fiber dyeing, mainly used for cationic and acrylic fiber dyeing. </p
