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The fabrics of cheongsam: generally include brocade, brocade, power spinning, Hangluo, silk, linen, tussah silk, spun silk, mulberry silk, castor silk, fragrant cloud yarn, silk, antique satin, plain crepe satin, georgette Velvet, gold jade satin, etc.

Brocade

One of my country’s traditional silk weaving varieties. Brocade was developed on the basis of Jiangnan brocade in my country at the end of the 19th century. It uses satin as the ground and more than three colored silks as the weft, that is, a triple weft fabric in which one set of warp and three sets of weft are interwoven. Eight warp-faced satin weaves are woven on a jacquard machine. Modern brocade can be divided into nine types according to raw materials: silk brocade, rayon brocade, interwoven brocade and gold and silver brocade. With exquisite patterns, gorgeous colors, tight and thick texture, and smooth and shiny surface, it is a representative variety among Chinese silks.

Brocade fabric is smooth, heavy-textured and drapey. The color is bright and gorgeous, and it is coupled with text patterns with good meanings such as auspiciousness, wealth, and honor. It has a very noble temperament. Generally, people in ancient times wore clothes that were either rich or noble, and it was also a symbol of identity and status. Because the process is complex and labor-intensive, the fabric itself is very expensive. So it usually only appears in wedding ceremonies. Brocades woven with gold threads and silver threads are even more superior. Among them, Nanjing’s Yun brocade has been called a tribute since ancient times and is the best among brocades! It has been listed as a national intangible cultural heritage.

Electric spinning

Electric spinning is a mulberry silk raw silk fabric, woven with a plain weave. It is named after the use of factory silk and electric silk looms instead of earthen silk and wooden machine weaving. There are many varieties of electric spinning. According to different fabric raw materials, there are silk electric spinning, viscose electric spinning and silk viscose interlaced electric spinning. According to the different weight of fabric per square meter, it can be divided into heavy weight (above 40g/m2), medium weight and light weight (below 20g/m2). According to different dyeing and finishing processes, there are whitening, whitening, dyeing and printing. Electric spinning products are often named after places, such as: Hangzhou Textile (produced in Hangzhou). Shaofang (produced in Shaoxing), Hufang (produced in Huzhou), etc.

Electric textiles have a tight, fine and clean texture, a soft feel, a soft luster, and are smooth and comfortable to wear. The heavy ones are mainly used as summer shirts, skirt fabrics and children’s clothing fabrics; the medium ones can be used as clothing linings; the light ones can be used as petticoats, headscarves, etc. It is a high-grade fabric.

Hang Luo

Regarding “Luo”, there is a passage in “Cihai”, which is said to be “the name of silk fabrics. It is composed of ply silk with Luo structure, with a thin texture and smooth feel. It looks like plain silk, with warp and weft yarns twisted together.” There are regular horizontal or vertical rows of holes, the pattern is beautiful and elegant, and it is breathable. For example, “Hangluo” is specially mentioned here as the representative. It can be seen that in the “Luo” family, “Hangluo” is the representative. A more eye-catching standout. There is also a saying that Hangluo, Su satin and Yun brocade are listed as the three famous silk products in southeast China. The status of Hangluo is evident from this.

Because Luo is a relatively breathable silk fabric, it is often used to make underwear, mosquito nets, tents, culottes, etc. We often see terms such as “Luo tent” and “Luo skirt” in ancient books, which refer to items made of Luo.

Silk

Real silk generally refers to silk, including mulberry silk, tussah silk, castor silk, cassava silk, etc. Silk has a soft luster, a soft hand feel, and a fine texture. When rubbed together, it can make a special sound, commonly known as ‘Si Ming’ or ‘Silk Ming’. It can be clenched tightly with your hands and then released. It has few and inconspicuous wrinkles. The silk quality of real silk products is dry. Wet stretch is consistent.

tussah silk

It feels soft and elastic. It has good heat resistance. Sericin is layered and attached to the periphery of silk fibroin. The strength begins to weaken when the temperature reaches 140°C. Moisture resistance is also strong, accounting for about 85%; sericin is light brown, and its strength can increase by 4% under humid conditions. Its insulation, strength, elongation, anti-brittleness, acid and alkali resistance and other properties are better than those of mulberry silk. But the fabric shrinks a lot. Raw silk is not easy to dye. Tussah silk textile products have strong rigidity, strong acid and alkali resistance, natural color, thick fiber and good warmth retention. They are the first choice for silk quilts and silk blankets. Some manufacturers will use white alkali to rinse them, but the actual chemical residue is very low and does no harm to people.

Differences from mulberry silk

In terms of price, since silkworms need to be artificially raised, which requires a lot of manpower, and mulberry silk is mostly used to make yarn and clothing in the south, the price is higher. Tussah silkworms grow wild and are mainly produced in the north. The textile industry in the north is underdeveloped, so the amount used is small and the price is naturally low.

Both have their own strengths, and both are animal proteins that are close to human skin proteins. They all have the advantages of good breathability, UV protection, and good hygroscopicity, so silk products are noble textile products. The price is naturally more expensive.

Xiangyunsha

Xiangyun yarn has a refreshing and soft feel, is waterproof, sun-proof, has good hand washing fastness, is easy to wash and dry, and is durable in wear.It is a summer clothing fabric that has been used in China and the South for thousands of years and has been exported to Southeast Asian countries.

Antique satin

It is one of the varieties derived from brocade. One of the specialties of Hangzhou. It is a woven jacquard fabric made of real silk warp and lustrous rayon weft interwoven. The themes are landscapes, pavilions, platforms, buildings, pavilions, etc. The colors are simple and antique, hence the name. It is a triple weft fabric with one set of warps interlaced with three sets of wefts. A, B, two wefts and warps are woven into eight warp-faced satin textures. It is a representative variety of silk in my country. Because it is elastic, stiff but not hard, soft but not tired, it is an ideal fabric for women to make Western-style pajamas and other satins and decorative silks.

Source: Fall in love with cheongsam