01 polar fleece
Polar fleece fabric is soft, lightweight, quick-drying, easy to wash, and can still keep out the cold when it gets wet. Under the same conditions, it is twice as cold-resistant as merino wool and four times as cold-resistant as cotton. Lightweight polar fleece is easy to move and comfortable to wear.
The main component of polar fleece is polyester fiber (polyester). Its advantages are high strength, good elasticity, good heat resistance, good wear resistance, good sunlight resistance, corrosion resistance, light weight, good warmth retention, and no fear Enzyme moth. Another outstanding advantage is that it is easy to take care of and can be washed.
In addition, polar fleece can also be compounded with any other fabrics to achieve better cold resistance (polar fleece and polar fleece composite, polar fleece and denim composite, polar fleece and lambswool composite, polar fleece and mesh) Cloth composite with waterproof and breathable membrane in the middle, etc.).
02 Processing process
Process flow:
Arranging → Dyeing → Add raising agent to the dye vat → Dehydration → Drying → Sectioning → Brushing → Combing → Shearing → Shaking → Final product shaping → Inspection → Packaging → Warehousing.
Precautions
1. The dyeing and finishing process and parameter design must take into account maintaining the shape of the hollow fibrils as much as possible to avoid shrinkage of the fiber cavity, otherwise it will be difficult to reflect the difference between special-shaped hollow fibers and conventional fibers.
2. When designing the process parameters of each process, it is necessary to ensure that the polar fleece has a thick feel and fluffy effect, increase the static air layer between fibers, and improve the warmth, lightness, and softness of the fabric.
03 Production process
1. Dyeing
Special-shaped hollow polyester fiber fabrics are dyed with high temperature and high pressure. The dyeing temperature is generally 120~130℃. Under the condition of ensuring the color fastness requirements, try to use 120℃ for dyeing. The holding time should not exceed 30 minutes to reduce the risk of dyeing due to high temperature and long dyeing time. A phenomenon that affects the shrinkage of fibers. During the dyeing operation, the tank volume should not be too large, try not to exceed 80% of the tank capacity, and avoid overlapping the cloth in the dye vat for a long time.
2. Add fluffing agent
The method of adding fluffing agent is divided into setting and adding fluffing agent and dyeing vat and adding fluffing agent. Adding fluffing agent to the dye vat requires impregnating the fluffing agent at normal temperature. The advantage is that when adding fluffing agent, the cloth body is less affected by tension and is relaxed, which will not change the shape of the special-shaped hollow filament. Moreover, the auxiliary agent has a long action time on the fiber, is relatively uniform, and has high production efficiency. , so a dye vat is used to add fluffing agent.
3. Brush bristles
Brushing uses mechanical straight needles to flatten the cloth surface, and curved needles (needle lifts) to gradually break off the fibers on the loops layer by layer, and continuously hook and pull the loop yarns to loosen the loop yarns, forming independent fluff, feathering and covering it. Fabric surface. Because the looped needle continuously hooks and pulls the loop yarn, the fabric shrinks longitudinally and transversely, the fabric body is thick, not easy to shed, the fluff is fluffy, and the added value of the fabric is increased. When adjusting the bristle machine, attention should be paid to the tension and fluff rate (ie, the speed of the looper). The tension determines the length of the hair, and the fluff rate determines the density of the fluff.
The process parameters of special-shaped hollow polyester fiber and conventional polyester fiber polar fleece bristles are shown in the table.
The faster the covering needle speed, the looser the tension, the faster the needle lifting speed, the higher the fluff rate. On the contrary, the tighter the tension, the lower the fluff rate. The gaps between the pre-shaped special-shaped hollow polyester fibers are large, and the tension during brushing is looser than that of conventional polar fleece, and the bristles can be brushed lightly. The bristle card clothing uses curved needle bristles with low density and good elasticity to easily hook and feather the hollow fibers, reducing the chance of stretching and breaking the hollow fibers and reducing losses.
4. Combing
The semi-finished product after brushing passes through the needle roller of the carding machine to comb out and straighten the messy hair, stand up and comb out the broken hairs in the fluff, so that the fluff becomes fluffy and straight after combing, so that the hair length is consistent after shearing. The grains are easy to form grains.
Carding process parameters of special-shaped hollow polyester fiber and conventional polyester fiber polar fleece
The tension adjustment in sections A, B, and C is to place the fabric flatly on the carding machine plate to ensure even combing. The tension is generally only fine-tuned. The combing rate is the main factor in combing adjustment. The higher the combing rate, the heavier the combing, and vice versa.
The gaps between special-shaped hollow polyester fibers are large, and light combing can meet the requirements. It can reduce the degree of elongation and breakage of the hollow fibers, and the hollow fibers can be straightened and fluffed.
5. Shearing
After being woven, untwisted or brushed, the pile fibers on the surface of velvet fabrics are of different lengths. It is necessary to cut the pile into straight and neat short hair; or to cut the long hair to make the pile surface flat. The length of sheared hair directly determines the size of the particles. The longer the hair, the larger the particles, and the fluffier the particle style. The more static air content in the special-shaped hollow polyester fiber, the better the warmth retention.
Therefore, when producing super-fluffy special-shaped hollow polyester fiber polar fleece, the hair left after shearing should be longer, and less floating hair will be cut off, thus reducing shearing loss. However, the hair left after shearing should not be too long, otherwise the floating hair on the cloth surface will be too large.�� If the rough surface is uneven, the particles formed after shaking will be blurred and not smooth, affecting the aesthetics. When shearing, adjust the angle of the triangular knife and the circular knife according to the thickness of the cloth, so that the cut fluff is upright and not lodging, so that the fluff has free space to intertwine and shrink with each other during the shake, forming full and fluffy particles, otherwise it will form The particles are relatively flat and not fluffy.
6. Shake grain
The cloth is mechanically turned and blown by hot air in the shaker, causing the fluff to intertwin, pellet and shrink with each other.
There are currently two types of shaker machines: tension-free shaker barrels and jet-type continuous shaker machines.
The tension-free shaker barrel is a traditional shaker method. After shearing, the cloth head must be cut, and the shaker must be held and pulled manually, which is high loss and labor-intensive. The tension-free shaker barrel relies on steam heating, hot air drying and cold air cooling.
The jet-flow continuous shaker anti-shrinking machine uses hot air for heating and cold air for cooling. After shearing, there is no need to cut the cloth end. The cloth is directly fed into the jet-type continuous shaker and shrink-proof machine through the cloth guide wheel. The cloth rotates in the shaker, and the hot air blows, oscillates, and rubs to form particles.
The polar fleece barrel uses direct steam to heat the polar fleece. The temperature cannot be set according to the process requirements. High temperature will cause the special-shaped hollow polyester fibers to shrink greatly, reduce the hollow volume, and affect the hollow structure and fluffiness of the polar fleece. Hollow fibers are suitable for production using a temperature-adjustable jet-flow continuous shaker anti-shrinking machine.
7. Finished product finalizing
When setting the shape of special-shaped hollow polyester fibers, the tensile tension should be small to reduce the probability that the hollow pipes and hollow walls of the special-shaped hollow fibers will be long and narrow due to stretching, and to avoid the occurrence of linting due to excessive stretching, which will reduce the quality of the shaker style. Fluffiness. The finished product of the polarized cloth should not be shaped by rollers, otherwise it will affect the fluffy feeling of the polarized cloth.
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