When buying shirts, you will always hear several opinions: plain weave, twill weave, satin weave, and jacquard. What are the differences between them?
Plain weave, twill weave and satin weave (gon satin) refer to the organizational structure of the fabric. In terms of structure alone, there is no good or bad distinction between the three, just because the different structures have their own characteristics.
1. Plain grain
Every other yarn in warp and weft Just intertwine once. The cloth is firm, scratchy and has a smooth surface. Generally, high-end embroidery fabrics are made of plain weave fabrics. The characteristics of plain grain are thin, smooth and flat. The disadvantage is that it wrinkles easily. The thin, smooth, and flat characteristics of this fabric make it relatively transparent, so it is easy to show off when wearing a white plain shirt.
Plain weave fabric has many interweaving points, strong texture, and smooth surface. The front and back sides have the same appearance, are lighter and thinner, and have better breathability. The structure of plain weave determines its lower density. Generally speaking, plain fabrics are cheaper. But there are also a few plain fabrics that are relatively expensive, such as some high-end embroidered fabrics.
2. Twill
The warp and weft yarns are interlaced at least once every two yarns. Twill fabric is thicker and has a stronger three-dimensional texture than plain weave fabric. Twill is less prone to wrinkles.
Twill fabrics are easier to identify because the intersection points of the warp and weft lines of the twill fabric present a structure of twill lines at a certain angle on the surface of the fabric. Its characteristics are that it has front and back sides, fewer interweaving points, longer floating lines, soft feel, higher density, thicker product, and strong three-dimensional texture.
3. Satin weave
The warp and weft yarns are interlaced at least every three yarns. The fabric has the highest density and thickest fabric, and the cloth surface is smoother, more delicate and glossy, but the product cost is higher, so the price is relatively expensive.
The satin weaving process is relatively complicated. Only one warp yarn and weft yarn covers the surface in a floating form. The warp floats covering the surface are called warp satin; the weft floats covering the surface are called weft satin. Longer floating threads give the fabric surface a better luster and can easily reflect light. Therefore, if you look closely at the cotton satin fabric, you will feel a faint luster.
If filament yarn with better luster is used as floating yarn, the fabric’s luster and light reflectivity will be more prominent. For example, the silk jacquard fabric has a silky bright effect.
The floating threads in satin fabrics are prone to fraying, fluffing, or fiber hooking. Therefore, the strength of this type of fabric is lower than plain and twill fabrics. The satin fabric of the same yarn count is denser and thicker, and the cost is higher.
4. Jacquard
It was popular in Europe several centuries ago, and jacquard fabric clothing has become a classic for royal nobles to reflect their nobility and elegance. Nowadays, noble patterns and gorgeous fabrics have obviously become the trend of high-end home textiles.
The fabric of jacquard fabric changes its warp and weft structure during weaving to form a pattern. The yarn count is fine and the requirements for raw materials are extremely high. The warp and weft yarns of jacquard fabric are intertwined and floated to form various patterns. The texture is soft, delicate and smooth, with good smoothness, drape and air permeability, and high color fastness.
